The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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October 16

Menu: Poëled Fowl, Cranberry Sauce; Mashed Potatoes; Cauliflower au Gratin; Tomato and Green Pepper Salad; Macaroon Custard; Queen Cakes; Coffee Queen Cakes-1/2 cup sugar, 1/2 cup Crisco, 1½ teaspoon salt, 3 eggs, 14 cup currants, 1/4 cup glace cherries (cut in dice), grate nutmeg, thin rind 12 lemon (chopped finely), juice 1 lemon, 1 cup up flour, 4 tablespoons rice flour, and 1 teaspoon baking powder. Put Crisco and sugar in basin and work with wooden spoon to cream, add salt and eggs 1 by 1, and beat mixture thoroughly. Mix in separate basin fruit, lemon rind, flours and baking powder. Stir this into other mixture, add nutmeg, and strained lemon juice. Stir mixture several minutes longer. Have ready Criscoed gem tins, three-parts fill them with mixture and bake fairly hot oven from 20 to 25 minutes. Unmold cakes and place on sieve to cool. Cakes may be coated with chocolate or boiled frosting.

For the Modern Kitchen

A small, rich currant-and-cherry cake from Crisco's dinner calendar, baked in gem tins rather than as a loaf. A few of the printed quantities need judgment before you start.

A Little History

Queen cakes are an English small cake of long standing, made from the same creamed pound-cake batter as their larger relatives and traditionally baked in little fluted or heart-shaped tins -- the name is generally traced to that courtly, individually moulded presentation rather than to any particular queen. Rice flour and currants were both standard in the eighteenth- and nineteenth-century versions, so the recipe reached this early Crisco promotional book largely intact from British household cookery. What changed is the fat: The Story of Crisco was published to encourage cooks to use hydrogenated cottonseed oil in place of butter and lard in exactly such heritage recipes, and a calendar of dinners -- an arrangement found in Crisco cookbooks, though the date of the edition is uncertain -- assigned one to every day of the year, this one to October 17.

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