The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Rice Pudding

1/2 cupful rice 3 cupfuls milk 3/4 cupful sugar 1/4 cupful Crisco 3 eggs Powdered cinnamon to taste 1/4 cupful seeded raisins ½ teaspoonful salt Wash rice and steam it in milk until thick, then allow to cool. Cream Crisco and sugar, add well beaten eggs, raisins, salt, rice, and cinnamon. Grease pudding dish with Crisco, pour in mixture and bake one hour in moderate oven. 1/2 cupful sugar ½ cupfuls flour

For the Modern Kitchen

The ingredient list as printed is scrambled and incomplete — a common fate for two-column cookbook pages. Read the method first, then work out what the list should have said.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco was published by Procter & Gamble in 1913 to introduce American cooks to hydrogenated cottonseed oil, a product with no culinary tradition behind it and no obvious place in an existing kitchen. The book's solution was to take dishes everyone already knew — rice pudding among the plainest of them — and rewrite them with Crisco substituted for butter, lard, or suet, so that the novelty arrived inside something familiar. Baked rice pudding itself is far older, an economical nursery and Sunday dish across Britain and America built on the same logic as any milk pudding: a little grain, a lot of milk, eggs to set it, and long slow heat. Crisco was also marketed heavily as neither meat nor dairy, which made it useful in kosher kitchens, and P&G advertised that point directly.

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