The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Hurry Up Cake

3/4 cupful sugar 1½ cupfuls flour. 4 tablespoonfuls Crisco 1/2 teaspoonful almond extract Milk ½ teaspoonful lemon extract 2 whites of eggs 1/4 teaspoonful salt 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder Sift flour, baking powder, salt and sugar into bowl. Put whites of eggs into measuring cup, add Crisco, and fill cup with milk. Add to dry mixture with extracts and beat vigorously six minutes. Pour into small Criscoed and floured cake tin and bake in moderate oven forty-five minutes. Cake may be frosted if liked.

Sufficient for one small cake.

Cakes 3 eggs 1 cupful sugar 1/2 cupful Crisco 1/2 teaspoonful salt

For the Modern Kitchen

The text as printed is incomplete: flour and sugar appear in the method but not in the ingredient list, and a stray fragment from the following page ("Cakes 3 eggs 1 cupful sugar...") has been swept in at the end. What survives is a one-cup shortcut white cake, and the technique is worth understanding even where the quantities have been lost.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was published by Procter & Gamble to teach American cooks what to do with a fat that had no precedent in their kitchens: cottonseed oil hardened by hydrogenation into a white, odourless, shelf-stable solid. The recipes were written by Marion Harris Neil, a working cookery author, and the book's job was to prove that Crisco could replace butter in cakes, lard in pastry and both in frying — hence the brand name appearing in nearly every line, and the verb "Criscoed" for greasing a tin. "Hurry up" cakes belong to a genre that flourished with reliable chemical baking powder: no creaming stage, no separate mixing of wet and dry, everything beaten together in one bowl. The one-cup measuring trick here is a small piece of domestic-science thinking of the sort that filled early twentieth-century manufacturers' cookbooks, where the aim was a result the least experienced cook could not easily spoil.

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