The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Shortbread Cookies

2 1/2 cupfuls flour. 1/2 cupful Crisco. 1/2 cupful sugar. 1/2 teaspoonful salt 1 egg 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract Beat Crisco, sugar, and salt to cream. Add gradually egg well beaten, flour, and flavoring. Knead lightly on floured baking board, then roll out one-fourth inch thick and cut into small rounds. Mark them with fork, lay on Criscoed tins and bake in moderate oven from ten to fifteen minutes.

Sufficient for forty cookies

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain rolled cookie from Procter & Gamble's 1913 promotional book, written to prove that vegetable shortening could stand in for butter. Note that the ingredient list as printed here is incomplete.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco was published by Procter & Gamble in 1913, a few years after the shortening went on sale, and it is a sales document as much as a cookbook: nearly every recipe names the product by brand, and the verb "to Crisco" a pan is used without apology. The company's problem was that American cooks trusted butter and lard and had no reason to want a white, odourless fat made from cottonseed oil, so the book set out to show that anything butter could do, Crisco could do more cheaply and, it argued, more digestibly. Calling this cookie a shortbread is part of that argument, borrowing the prestige of a butter-rich Scottish confection for a dough built on hydrogenated vegetable oil. The recipe's real interest is as evidence of how a new industrial ingredient was introduced into home baking: not by inventing new dishes, but by quietly substituting itself into familiar ones.

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