The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Sift

Cream Crisco and sugar together, then add well beaten eggs. dry ingredients, and add to first mixture alternately with milk. Divide into Criscoed and floured gem pans and bake in moderately hot oven fifteen minutes.

Sufficient for fifteen cakes.

Cakes 4 eggs 1 cupful sugar

For the Modern Kitchen

The page has come down to us garbled — the ingredient list is truncated to "4 eggs, 1 cupful sugar" and the sifting instruction that gave the section its heading has been cut adrift from the method. Read it as a template for a plain creamed butter-cake baked in muffin tins rather than a set of working quantities.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco was published by Procter & Gamble in 1913, two years after Crisco itself went on sale, with recipes by the Scottish-born cookery writer Marion Harris Neil. Crisco was hydrogenated cottonseed oil — a solid white fat that behaved like lard but was made from a crop the South already grew in enormous quantity, and it was marketed hard as a modern, odourless, kosher-friendly alternative to both lard and butter. That marketing is visible in the verb: the pans are not greased, they are "Criscoed." The recipe's plain creamed method, with dry ingredients and milk added alternately, was standard American practice by the 1910s and had been set out in books like Fannie Farmer's a generation earlier.

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