The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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White Cookies

2 cupfuls sugar 1 cupful Crisco 1 teaspoonful baking soda 1 teaspoonful salt 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract ½ teaspoonful lemon extract Flour ½ cupful thick sour milk 2 eggs Cream Crisco and sugar together, add eggs well beaten, soda mixed with sour milk, salt, extracts, and about 5 cupfuls flour. Roll very thin, cut with cookie cutter, lay on Criscoed tins, bake in moderately hot oven five minutes. To keep any length of time, when cold, place in covered tin cans and set in cool place, and they will be as crisp as when first baked. Sufficient for ninety cookies. 2 lbs.

For the Modern Kitchen

The text as printed is defective: the opening quantities of Crisco and sugar have dropped out, and a second, unrelated ingredient list (flour, Crisco, milk, yeast, sugar — clearly the start of a bread or coffee cake) has been pulled in at the end. What follows treats the cookie method as the recipe and flags what is genuinely missing.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was published by Procter & Gamble to teach cooks what to do with a new product — hydrogenated cottonseed oil, sold as a shortening that did not smoke like lard and kept without refrigeration. The book's strategy is visible in this recipe: it is an ordinary sour-milk rolled cookie of a kind that appeared in American manuscript and community cookbooks throughout the nineteenth century, rewritten so that the fat is Crisco and the baking sheets are "Criscoed" rather than greased, the brand name used as a verb. "White cookies" simply distinguishes them from darker molasses or spice cookies; they are pale because they carry no brown sugar, molasses, or egg yolk-heavy enrichment, and the flavor comes entirely from vanilla and lemon extract. The advice to store them in covered tin cans in a cool place reflects a period before household refrigeration, when a large batch of thin, dry cookies was a practical way to keep something sweet on hand for weeks.

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