The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Coffee Layer Cake

1 cupful dark brown sugar 2/3 cupful cold strong coffee 3 yolks of eggs 1/2 cupful Crisco 1/4 cupful raisins 1 tablespoonful molasses

For the Modern Kitchen

This is the ingredient column only — the method, and evidently part of the ingredient list, did not come through with the page. Read it as a shopping list rather than a set of instructions.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was written by Marion Harris Neil for Procter & Gamble, two years after Crisco went on sale, and it is a cookbook with a job to do: nearly every recipe in it exists to show that hydrogenated vegetable shortening could stand in for butter and lard. Crisco was marketed hard to households that could not or would not cook with lard — it was promoted as neither meat nor dairy, and so acceptable in kosher kitchens — and as a cheaper, more shelf-stable fat than butter. "Coffee cake" here means a cake flavoured with coffee, not the sweetened breakfast bread the term later came to mean in America; brewed coffee as a cake liquid was a common trick for deepening the colour and flavour of a brown-sugar batter, and it pairs naturally with the molasses and raisins.

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