Cider Jelly

A clear amber jelly built on hard cider, from a period when powdered gelatine had just become a reliable pantry item. Two things need attention: the cider meant here, and the amount of gelatine.

• Cider means hard ciderIn an English recipe, cider is fermented and generally dry, typically somewhere around 5-8% alcohol. Sweet unfermented apple juice will set the same way but tastes flat and cloying against a pound of sugar; if you use juice, cut the sugar sharply.
• The measure of cider2 1/2 imperial pints is 50 fl oz, or a little over 6 US cups. If you are working from US pints the recipe shrinks by about a sixth and the jelly will set firmer.
• Two ounces of gelatine is a lotThat is roughly eight 1/4-oz envelopes for six cups of liquid, giving a stiff, sliceable jelly meant to be unmoulded and stand up on a dish. Modern taste runs to a softer set; half that quantity gives a jelly that still turns out cleanly.
• Do not boil it hardProlonged boiling weakens gelatine's setting power and drives off the cider's aroma along with the alcohol. Dissolve the gelatine in a little cold water first, warm the cider with the sugar until both are fully dissolved, and take it no further than a bare simmer. "Boil and stir until thick" describes the syrup thickening, not the jelly setting in the pan.
• Strain and skimCider throws a fine haze, and the recipe asks for straining. Strain through muslin, and skim the surface before pouring if you want the jelly clear.
• The mouldRinse the mould in cold water rather than oiling it. To turn out, dip the outside in hot water for a few seconds and invert onto a wetted plate so the jelly can be slid into position.
• Setting timeThe original gives none. Allow at least six hours in the refrigerator, and overnight for a large mould.
• YieldAbout six cups of jelly, serving eight to ten with the cakes and cream the recipe calls for. Alcohol remains unless the cider was boiled hard, which is worth knowing before serving it to children.