With a Saucepan Over the Sea

Adelaide Keen went abroad with a notebook and came home with the recipes — cocka leekie from Scotland, petite marmite from Paris, the maids of honor of Richmond — each dish tagged with the country that gave it.

HomeCakes, Puddings, and Pastry › Tansy Pudding

Tansy Pudding

(Old English recipe.) This is still eaten in country towns, and is considered wholesome in the spring. Pour 3 tablespoonfuls of the expressed juice of bruised tansy leaves over enough bread-crumbs to absorb it, add 3 ounces of blanched and pounded almonds, 2 ounces of sugar, 2 ounces of butter, 1 teaspoonful of grated lemon peel, 3 beaten eggs, 1/2 pint of cream or milk. Boil, like a custard, and serve with lemon sauce, hot.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

The custard technique here is unremarkable; the problem is the defining ingredient. Common tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) is not a culinary herb by any current standard, and three tablespoons of its expressed juice is a substantial dose.

A Little History

Tansy puddings and "tansies" were an Easter and Lent dish in England for centuries, eaten through the spring and often explained as a bitter counterpart to the Passover herbs or as a corrective after a winter of salt meat and no greens. Early forms were closer to a herb omelette or fried egg cake; by the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries the tansy had softened into a baked or boiled almond custard like this one, with the herb reduced to a green juice, a colour and a bitter note. That a compiler files it as an "Old English recipe" still eaten "in country towns" is telling: by then the dish was already a survival, remembered in the provinces and curious enough to be worth reporting. Its slow disappearance owes as much to changing taste as to any medical judgement, though the toxicity of the plant was well understood by physicians long before the dish left the table.

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