With a Saucepan Over the Sea

Adelaide Keen went abroad with a notebook and came home with the recipes — cocka leekie from Scotland, petite marmite from Paris, the maids of honor of Richmond — each dish tagged with the country that gave it.

HomeMeats and Entrees › Goose Pie

Goose Pie

(Strasburg.) Cut the meat from the bones of a roast goose, and put the bones, gravy, and stuffing in a quart of water with herbs and a carrot, celery, and an onion. When it has cooked 2 hours, strain it, and reduce it to a pint. Arrange a layer of boiled and mashed onions in a dish, along the sides and bottom, seasoned to taste, then a layer of meat, and so on, until full. Pour in the sauce, to which is added a spoonful of sherry and 1/2 cup of stewed tomatoes. Put a lid of paste on top, and bake 2 hours. Serve hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a second-day dish built on the carcass of a roast goose, and it stands or falls on the stock. Nothing here is difficult, but two of the original directions — the pastry vocabulary and the two-hour bake — need translating.

A Little History

Goose pie is one of the oldest ways of dealing with a large bird that has already been to table once: the English kept raised goose pies as Christmas keeping-food for centuries, and the logic of this version — bones and leftover stuffing back into the pot, meat layered with onion, a pastry lid over the lot — is straight out of that thrifty tradition. The Strasburg attribution points to Alsace, a region long associated with goose because of the fattening trade that supplied its famous pâté. The naming is loose in the way such collections often are: a dish need only have been eaten somewhere to be labelled with the place. What dates it most clearly is the assumption that a household roasting a whole goose will have both the carcass and the stuffing left over, and a cook with two spare hours to make something of them.

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