With a Saucepan Over the Sea

Adelaide Keen went abroad with a notebook and came home with the recipes — cocka leekie from Scotland, petite marmite from Paris, the maids of honor of Richmond — each dish tagged with the country that gave it.

HomeMeats and Entrees › Minestrone

Minestrone

(Italy.) Chop 2 ounces bacon; add a slice of ham, a cabbage, shredded, 2 cups of string beans, 4 tablespoonfuls of celery cut into dice, as much peas, asparagus tips, and a cup of stewed tomatoes. Then add 2 quarts of broth, 1 pound of rice, and some sliced Bologna sausage. Cook for 1 hour; add a cup of grated Parmesan cheese and serve hot. This is a national dish.

For the Modern Kitchen

A compressed, rather grand version of minestrone that reads more like a note taken abroad than a tested formula. Two things need fixing before it will work: the rice is wildly out of proportion, and the vegetables all go in at once.

A Little History

Minestrone is simply the augmented form of the Italian minestra, a soup course; the -one suffix marks it as the big one, thick with whatever vegetables the season and the garden yielded. There has never been a canonical recipe, which is precisely why turn-of-the-century travel cookbooks like this one could print a single version and call it "a national dish" without contradiction: in Liguria it carries basil and pesto, in Milan rice and pork fat, in Tuscany beans and stale bread. The rice here, rather than pasta, points at a northern model, as does the bacon-and-ham base standing in for pancetta and a prosciutto end.

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