With a Saucepan Over the Sea

Adelaide Keen went abroad with a notebook and came home with the recipes — cocka leekie from Scotland, petite marmite from Paris, the maids of honor of Richmond — each dish tagged with the country that gave it.

HomeCakes, Puddings, and Pastry › Strawberry Bavarian Cream

Strawberry Bavarian Cream

This can be made also of peaches or pineapple, or any fruit in due proportions. Pick and press through a sieve sufficient berries to make a pint of pulp, add 10 ounces of sugar, 1/2 a teaspoonful of vanilla, and 1 1/2 ounces of gelatine, melted in 1 cup of water. Stir until almost firm, add sufficient whipped cream to fill a 3-pint mould. Set on ice.

For the Modern Kitchen

A classic bavarois built on fruit purée, gelatine and whipped cream, with no custard base. The proportions need adjusting for modern gelatine, which is considerably stronger than what the book assumed.

A Little History

The bavarois is French restaurant cookery rather than Bavarian home cooking — the name is generally traced to a dish made for or associated with the Wittelsbach court, though the version cooks recognise today, a fruit or custard base lightened with whipped cream and held with gelatine, belongs to the nineteenth-century Parisian kitchen and its codifiers. It became a fixture in English and American books once commercially sheeted and granulated gelatine made the setting agent cheap and reliable; before that, a cook would have drawn her own jelly from calves' feet or isinglass, which was slow work and made moulded creams a dish for households with staff. A recipe like this one, which assumes both a mould and a supply of ice, sits squarely in the late Victorian and Edwardian dessert repertoire, where the ability to turn something soft out of a shape and have it stand up was itself the point.

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