A New Snowdrift Cook Book

Mrs. Ida Bailey Allen for the Southern Cotton Oil Trading Company, 1920 — a shortening tin's cookbook, and a lesson in how fat was sold.

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Butterscotch Pie

11/2 Cupfuls Boiling Water 11/2 Cupfuls Brown Sugar 11/2 Tablespoonfuls Granulated Sugar 4 Tablespoonfuls Cornstarch 11/2 Tablespoonfuls Snowdrift ⅛ Teaspoonful Salt 1/2 Teaspoonful Vanilla 3 Eggs Pastry Caramelize the granulated sugar and add the boiling water and brown sugar. Let this boil thoroughly, then thicken it with the salt and cornstarch, mixed with barely enough cold water to moisten. Stir constantly until the mixture thickens, then add the Snowdrift and pour the mixture into the egg yolks, which have been slightly beaten. Pour into a cooked pastry shell, cover with a meringue, made as described in Lemon Meringue Pie, and bake ten minutes in a slow oven, 325 degrees F.

For the Modern Kitchen

A cornstarch-thickened brown sugar custard in a pre-baked shell, from a shortening manufacturer's promotional book. The whole dish turns on the caramel: the granulated sugar must go dark enough to taste of caramel rather than just sweet syrup.

A Little History

Butterscotch as a flavour is a nineteenth-century British confectionery idea -- brown sugar and butter boiled together -- that American home cooks moved into pies, puddings and cake fillings as cornstarch became a cheap pantry staple. This version belongs to a genre of publication rather than to a region: the manufacturer's cook book, given away or sold cheaply to teach housewives to use a new industrial fat. Snowdrift was a cottonseed-oil shortening promoted heavily in the early twentieth century, and books like this one worked it into as many recipes as they could, including ones such as this where a spoonful or two of butter had always done the job. The pastry shell is baked separately and the filling cooked on the stovetop, a division of labour that let a cook with an unreliable range control the one part of the pie that could not be rescued.

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