A New Snowdrift Cook Book

Mrs. Ida Bailey Allen for the Southern Cotton Oil Trading Company, 1920 — a shortening tin's cookbook, and a lesson in how fat was sold.

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Marble Cake

After putting together the mixture for Loaf Cake, take out one-half and add to this a half teaspoonful each of ground clove, cinnamon and mace. Then put the plain and the spiced batter into the cake pan in alternating tablespoonfuls, and finish as directed.

For the Modern Kitchen

A variation recipe rather than a standalone one: it depends entirely on the book's Loaf Cake, a creamed butter-or-shortening cake baked in a loaf or tube pan. A few points about the spicing and the marbling are worth having.

A Little History

Marble cake reached American kitchens through nineteenth-century German-American baking, where a light and a dark batter were layered to make Marmorkuchen; early English-language versions usually darkened the second batter with molasses and spice rather than chocolate. Clove, cinnamon and mace were among the spice combinations American bakers of the period drew on, alongside nutmeg and allspice, and cookbooks could name them in one breath.

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