A New Snowdrift Cook Book

Mrs. Ida Bailey Allen for the Southern Cotton Oil Trading Company, 1920 — a shortening tin's cookbook, and a lesson in how fat was sold.

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Meat Pie

Beef, lamb, veal, or chicken may be used in this dish. A medium-sized chicken, or three pounds of the other meat, should be purchased. Cut the meat in pieces suitable for serving, dust it with salt and pepper, roll it in flour, and then fry until slightly browned in sufficient Snowdrift to keep it from sticking. Add a bit of bay-leaf, one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt and three cupfuls of boiling water, and simmer until tender, about two hours. Then remove the bay-leaf, add lemon juice to taste, and one and a half cupfuls of diced, raw potatoes. Stir in a cupful of cooked peas, diced string beans, or-with chicken-diced asparagus; thicken with a third cupful of flour creamed with three tablespoonfuls of Snowdrift, and bring to boiling-point. Transfer to an open casserole, or meat-pie dish, cover with biscuits made of flaky biscuit crust, set in a hot oven, 375 degrees F., and bake from twenty to twenty-five minutes.

For the Modern Kitchen

A stewed-and-topped meat pie of the sort American cookbooks called a "pot pie" once biscuits replaced pastry. Two details decide whether it works: the size of the raw potato dice and the thickness of the gravy going into the dish.

A Little History

This comes from a manufacturer's cookbook, one of hundreds issued in the early twentieth century to teach cooks what to do with a new product. Snowdrift, a cottonseed-oil shortening from the Southern Cotton Oil Company, was competing directly against lard and butter, and the strategy in these books tends to run the same way: put the brand name into every step, including ones where any fat would do. The dish itself is older than the shortening. A biscuit-topped stew of this kind is generally said to have been common in American home cooking before 1900, and the shift from a bottom-and-top pastry crust to a batch of baking-powder biscuits laid over hot filling belongs to the same period as chemical leavening becoming cheap and reliable. The instruction to buy "a medium-sized chicken, or three pounds of the other meat" reflects a market where cuts were less standardized than now he butbutcher had and judge.

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