Cassolettes de Saumon

The page gives quantities only, with the method left to the cook — normal in a book written for people who had already been taught the technique. What follows fills in what a modern cook needs to reconstruct it.

• What a cassolette is hereAlmost certainly small pastry cases, baked blind in tiny moulds and then filled, since the recipe calls for pastry. The word was also used in this period for small fireproof dishes or ramekins holding a savoury mixture, rather than only for a pastry case.
• Quantities in modern termsA quarter pound of pastry is about 115 g — enough, rolled thin, to line several small tartlet moulds. The same weight of salmon, flaked, fills them.
• Kippered salmonNot kipper (herring). Kippered salmon was salmon split, brined and smoked, closer to today's hot-smoked salmon than to the thin cold-smoked slices. Use hot-smoked salmon, flaked; cold-smoked will work but is saltier and softer.
• ChutneyA sweet, dark mango chutney is the most likely reading, that style being widely sold in Britain at the time. Chop any large pieces of fruit small so the filling spreads, and taste before adding all of it — the smoked fish is already salty.
• OvenBlind-bake the cases in a hot oven, 400-425F, until dry and pale gold, then fill. If you warm the filled cases through, 350F for a few minutes is plenty; the salmon is already cooked and toughens with long heat.
• Binding, if you want itAs written the filling is fish and chutney alone. A spoonful of thick béchamel, cream or softened butter holds it together.
• Yield and serviceA small number of cases, enough for a savoury course for a few people. Serve warm rather than hot, one or two per person, at the end of the meal.