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Purée à la Palestine
Ingredients.
Two pounds of Jerusalem Artichokes.
Two ounces of Butter.
One quart of White Stock.
Half a pint of Cream.
The book gives quantities only, in the shorthand of a professional kitchen where the method for a purée soup was assumed. The proportions are sound, so the notes below cover the units, the vegetable and the working order the list implies.
- Jerusalem artichokes are not artichokesThey are the tubers of Helianthus tuberosus, sold now as sunchokes. Two pounds untrimmed yields roughly 1 1/2 lb peeled; the knobbly skins can be left on if scrubbed hard, though the finished purée will be greyer.
- Imperial measuresIf this is a British book, a quart is 40 fl oz, not the American 32, and the half pint of cream is 10 fl oz rather than 8. Scale up US measures by a quarter if you want the intended richness.
- White stockAn unbrowned veal or chicken stock, made from bones blanched rather than roasted. A light chicken stock is the nearest supermarket equivalent; avoid anything dark or heavily reduced, which will overwhelm the artichoke.
- The order of workSweat the sliced tubers in the 2 oz butter over low heat without colouring, add the stock, simmer 20-25 minutes until collapsing, then purée and pass through a fine sieve. Blenders alone leave a slightly fibrous texture.
- Do not boil after the creamAdd the cream at the end, off the heat or over the barest simmer. A hard boil can split it.
- Keeping the colourPeeled sunchokes brown within minutes. Drop them into water with lemon juice or vinegar as you go if you want a pale ivory soup rather than a beige one.
- SeasoningThe list mentions none. Salt, white pepper and a little lemon at the finish are conventional for a purée of this kind; white pepper keeps the specks out.
- YieldAbout 2 1/2 pints of finished soup, or four to six servings as a first course.
- One practical warningSunchokes store carbohydrate as inulin, which many people digest poorly. A cup of this soup is a reasonable portion for a first attempt.
The name is a piece of kitchen wordplay rather than geography: Jerusalem artichoke is generally traced to a corruption of the Italian girasole, sunflower, the plant being a North American sunflower relation brought to Europe in the early seventeenth century, and French classical cookery duly labelled anything built on the tuber \ dish belongs to the family of smooth vegetable pur\u e9es codified in nineteenth-century professional cookery, where a named garnish or vegetable, a white stock and a finish of cream produced an entire catalogue of soups from one template."