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Two Trout
Twelve prepared Mussels.
Finely chopped Parsley.
Two ounces of Butter.
Two tablespoonfuls of Salad Oil.
Season the fish, cover thickly with dry flour.
Fry in a frying-pan in hot salad oil. Drain, dish up neatly and sprinkle thickly with very finely chopped parsley. Put the mussels round the fish. Boil up the butter, brown slightly and pour it round the trout.
This is trout meunière with a mussel garnish, written in the shorthand of a professional kitchen where the fish itself was assumed rather than listed. Two trout of 8-10 oz each serve two.
- The missing ingredient listThe heading supplies the fish: two whole trout, gutted, heads on or off as you prefer. Nothing here tells you to bone them, and pan-fried whole trout is easier to lift off the bone at table anyway.
- "Prepared mussels""Prepared mussels" most likely means mussels already scrubbed, debearded and steamed open, then lifted from their shells — the recipe does not spell this out. Buy live mussels with closed shells, discard any that stay shut after steaming, and keep them warm rather than cooking them a second time.
- Season and flourSalt and pepper the fish, then coat in flour immediately before it goes into the pan. Flour applied early draws moisture and turns to paste, which is the difference between a crisp skin and a gummy one.
- Salad oilSimply a neutral, refined oil suitable for the table; commonly olive, though cottonseed and light nut oils were also sold under that name. Any oil with a decent smoke point works; the flavour comes from the butter at the end.
- Hot pan, one turnThe oil should shimmer before the fish goes in. A trout of this size takes roughly 4 to 5 minutes on the first side and 3 to 4 on the second; the flesh at the thickest part of the back should come away from the bone cleanly.
- The butter is the point"Boil up the butter, brown slightly" is what is now called beurre noisette. Melt the 2 oz in a clean pan and let the milk solids colour to hazelnut, no further; it darkens very quickly once it starts. Pour it around the fish, not over the parsley, so the herb stays green.
- Order of assemblyFish drained and plated, parsley on, mussels around, butter last and still foaming. Anything done in advance loses the contrast between crisp coating and hot butter that the dish exists to deliver.
Trout floured and fried in fat, then finished with browned butter, is the technique the French call à la meunière -- "in the miller's wife's manner," traditionally explained as a reference to the dusting of flour. British high-class cookery was written in a French idiom, which explains the compressed style here: the fish is named in the title, the quantities of garnish are listed, and the method assumes a cook who already knows how to fry a fish. Mussels were cheap and plentiful on both coasts, and here they ring a plate of freshwater trout with shellfish.