Libertyville Presbyterian Cook Book

A small-town Presbyterian congregation's cookbook — measures in c., t. and T., sections from cocktails to sandwiches, page numbers inked by hand.

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Baked Ham with Pineapple

1 Ham butt (5 or 6 lbs.) Bread crumbs 6 cloves Mrs. R. M. Dillon. 1 bay leaf 1 can sliced pineapple Cover ham with cold water, add cloves and bay leaf, bring to boiling, point. Reduce fire and cook gently, allowing 30 minutes to the pound. Lift ham out of liquid, peel off skin and rub surface with bread crumbs and brown sugar. Cover surface of ham with pineapple halves, fastened with toothpicks. Sprinkle pineapple with brown sugar. Bake in moderate oven until pineapple is brown and glazed-about one hour. Baste often.

For the Modern Kitchen

A church-supper ham that assumes a raw or lightly cured joint of the kind sold at a butcher's counter in the 1920s. The one thing to check before you start is what kind of ham you actually have, because that decides everything about the timing.

A Little History

Baked ham studded with canned pineapple belongs to a specific moment: Hawaiian pineapple in tins was in production from the early 1900s, though its cheapness and ubiquity in American kitchens built through the 1910s and 1920s, and cooks put it everywhere a sweet-sour note was wanted against salt pork. A community cook book like this one is a good record of that shift, since the recipes are chosen for feeding a crowd on a predictable budget, and a canned good that keeps on the shelf all winter was worth more to a committee than fresh fruit. The two-stage method here, simmering then glazing, is older than the pineapple and was often used for hams that arrived from the butcher heavily salted and needed the brine drawn out in water before they saw an oven. Attributions like Mrs. R. M. Dillon's were the whole architecture of these books: each contributor gave her name with her dish, which suggests a volume assembled and sold by a local group to raise funds.

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