Graham Cracker Pie

An unbaked icebox pie from the era when graham crackers were crushed by hand with a rolling pin. It comes together in minutes and needs several hours of chilling to hold together.

• The butter quantityThe butter figure as printed is not usable as written. For 16 crackers, crumbed, half a cup of melted butter is the proportion that yields a workable paste; less leaves it sandy, more makes it greasy.
• Cracker measureSixteen graham crackers probably means 16 full rectangular sheets, which crush to roughly 1 1/2 cups of crumbs; if squares were meant, the yield is half that. Modern crumb crusts usually add 2 to 4 tablespoons of sugar; this one does not, relying on the pineapple for sweetness.
• Rolling the crackersSeal the crackers in a bag and crush with a rolling pin, or pulse in a food processor. Aim for fine, even crumbs -- coarse shards will not bind into a crust that can be lifted in slices.
• Draining the pineappleThis is the hinge. Any juice left in the fruit will soak the crumb layers into mush. Press the drained pineapple in a sieve, then blot with paper towel until it barely glistens.
• "Shredded pineapple"An older canning term for finely shredded fruit rather than rings or chunks. Crushed pineapple, thoroughly drained, is the direct substitute; the recipe does not specify a can size, so a standard 20 oz can is a reasonable stand-in.
• Pie tin and pressingAn 8- or 9-inch pan suits this quantity. Press the bottom half of the crumb mixture firmly up the sides as well as across the base, then scatter the top half over the fruit and press gently -- it will never be a solid lid, and should not be forced into one.
• Chilling time"Set in ice-box" means at least 4 hours and preferably overnight. Butter-bound crumbs need to go fully firm before cutting, and a warm pie will collapse on the server.
• YieldSix to eight small slices. Whipped cream is called for in the recipe and suits it: no sugar is added to the crust beyond what is already in the crackers.