Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Boiled Potatoes

Wash and scrape the skin from the potatoes with a knife made for this purpose. Drop at once into cold water to prevent discoloration. Let them remain in water half an hour. If the potatoes are to be cooked in their skins, wash them well and with a sharp knife cut a narrow band of skin from the center of the potato. Cover well with boiling water and let them boil with a cover on for thirty minutes. When the potatoes have boiled fifteen minutes put in the water 1 tablespoon of salt.

Drain off the water, and let the potatoes stand in a warm place that the steam may escape. Do not serve in a covered dish, as condensed steam causes the potatoes to become soggy.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain method with two details worth keeping and one worth reversing. Nothing here needs conversion; the interest is in the technique.

A Little History

Meatless Cookery belongs to a cluster of American cookbooks concerned with cooking without meat. Treating boiled potatoes as a dish able to stand at the centre of a meal says less about the potato's nutritional profile — it is mostly starch, and a poor stand-in for a chop — than about how such books were organised: their categories held whatever could carry the centre of a plate when meat was absent. The insistence on letting the steam escape and never covering the dish is a standing preoccupation of period cookery writing, which returned again and again to the difference between a dry, mealy potato and a sodden one.

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