Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches

Boston brown bread makes delicious sandwiches. Butter, and cut in thin slices, and add a thin round of white bread. Or omit the white bread and fill with chopped nuts.

For the Modern Kitchen

Barely a recipe and more a serving note, but it depends on a specific loaf and a specific way of cutting it.

A Little History

Steamed brown bread belongs to a New England tradition built around what the region actually grew: rye and cornmeal rather than abundant wheat, sweetened with molasses that arrived through the same Atlantic trade that supplied Boston's rum distilleries. It is traditionally the partner to Saturday-night baked beans. The loaf's cylindrical shape follows from steaming the batter in a tall tin or mould. Its appearance under sandwiches reflects the early twentieth-century vogue for dainty tea sandwiches, where a sweet, dark, sturdy bread paired with nuts or cheese let a cook build something substantial without recourse to ham or tongue.

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