Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeSandwiches › Cheese Paste for Sandwiches

Cheese Paste for Sandwiches

6 ounces grated cheese 4 tablespoons tomato puree Pepper, salt Mix the grated cheese to a smooth paste with the tomato puree; add pepper and salt to taste. The paste will keep for three or four days, but it must be kept covered. Spread on thin bread and butter.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-ingredient spread that depends entirely on the cheese being grated fine enough to bind. Nothing here needs updating except the choice of cheese and how long you trust it in the refrigerator.

A Little History

Meatless cookery in the early twentieth century leaned hard on cheese, which was among the cheaper concentrated proteins in a British kitchen and is often said to have stood in wherever a recipe would otherwise have called for potted meat. Potted and pasted spreads like this one are the vegetarian answer to the pots of pounded ham and tongue that filled sandwich chapters of the same era: the same technique of working a protein into a smooth, spreadable mass that would keep a few days under a cover in the larder. Tomato puree was a commercial product sold in tins, and it does double duty here as both moistener and acid, cutting the fattiness of the cheese in a way that butter alone would not. Thin bread and butter, cut and trimmed, was the fixed form of the tea sandwich, and the instruction to spread on it reflects the usual way such a paste was served.

← Catsup DressingBread and Butter Sandwiches →