Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Fruit Sandwiches

Spread bread and butter sandwiches with cooked dates, figs or prunes, moistened with a little lemon juice and chopped fine. Chopped nuts may be added.

For the Modern Kitchen

A one-line formula rather than a recipe, and it works as long as the fruit paste is stiff enough not to soak the bread. A few points on proportions and handling.

A Little History

Fruit sandwiches belong to the tea table and the lunch box rather than the dinner table, and they turn up throughout early twentieth-century American household cookery, where dates, figs and prunes were among the cheapest sweet things a pantry reliably held. Dried fruit shipped and stored well before domestic refrigeration was common. A book of meatless cookery has a particular reason to include them: sandwiches were the standard portable meal, and conventional fillings leaned heavily on cold meat or fish, so the compilers needed to supply substitutes built on fruit, nuts, cheese and eggs. The lemon juice here does the work that a savoury filling would otherwise do, keeping a very sweet paste from cloying.

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