Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Cheese Souffle (Tablespoons of butter)

2 tablespoons of butter 3 tablespoons flour 1/2 cup milk--scalded A speck of cayenne 1/4 cup grated cheese 3 whites of eggs 1/2 teaspoon salt Melt the butter; add the flour, and when well mixed, add gradually the scalded milk. Then add salt, cayenne and cheese. Remove from the fire. Cool the mixture, and fold into it the whites of the eggs, beaten until stiff. Pour into a buttered baking dish, and cook twenty minutes in a slow oven. Serve at once. Souffles must go directly to the table as they fall quickly when removed from the heat.

For the Modern Kitchen

A small, plain soufflé built on a very thick béchamel and lifted entirely by egg whites — there are no yolks in it at all. It comes together in about ten minutes of stovework, so have the dish buttered and the oven up before you start.

A Little History

Chapters headed "Whites of Eggs" were a fixture of turn-of-the-century American cookbooks, and they existed for a practical reason: custards, mayonnaise, sauces and gold cake all consumed yolks and left the whites behind. Rather than waste them, writers assembled a repertoire of meringues, white cakes, boiled icings and yolkless soufflés. The technique itself is straightforwardly French: a thick béchamel lightened with beaten whites, a method generally associated with French professional kitchens and carried into English-language household books through the nineteenth century, where it was steadily simplified for cooks working without a brigade.

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