Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeFruit Desserts › Cherry Cake

Cherry Cake

1/4 pound butter 1/4 pound bread crumbs 2 pounds black cherries 2 ounces almonds Cinnamon, cloves 2 ounces sugar 1/4 pint of milk Pick, and stone the cherries. Make the milk hot, and melt the butter in it. Blanch the almonds, and put them through a nut mill, and pound them well in a mortar. Now mix the almonds with the bread crumbs, sugar and a pinch each of cloves and cinnamon. Pour over the milk, and also melted butter, mix again carefully, and add the cherries. Bake in a shallow tin in a moderate oven for an hour. The cake should be about an inch and a half thick. Serve with whipped cream.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a crumb pudding rather than a cake in the modern sense: there is no flour, no egg and no leavening, so it sets into something dense and moist held together by breadcrumbs and ground almonds.

A Little History

Baked puddings built on breadcrumbs, ground almonds, butter and stone fruit run through German and Austrian home cooking as Kirschmichel, and this recipe's proportions, spicing with cloves and cinnamon, and use of black cherries are often said to point that way, though breadcrumb-and-almond baked puddings with stone fruit were long established in English cookery too. The crumb base is the giveaway: in households where bread was never wasted, stale loaf was the structural flour of the dessert course. Almonds in particular were the traditional standby of fast-day cooking across Europe, having long been used where meat, and sometimes eggs, were forbidden.

← Mulberry JellyStewed Cherries →