Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeBread, Etc. › Fruit Bread

Fruit Bread

2 1/4 cups potato water or milk 3 teaspoons salt 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons butter 1 pound raisins 1 yeast cake 2 quarts flour Dissolve the yeast cake in a little warm water. Prepare the potato water by cooking two medium-sized potatoes in a little more than a pint of water. Press through a colander, and measure. While lukewarm, add the salt, sugar, yeast, melted butter and raisins. Warm the flour slightly and add gradually to the liquid. Stir in slowly enough flour to knead well, but not enough to make a stiff dough. Keep in a warm place for one and a half hours until light. Knead and let it rise again an hour or more. Knead again lightly, and form into loaves. Let it rise in the pans about an hour then bake for forty-five minutes. If potato water is not used, the same amount of water and milk in equal quantities may be substituted.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward enriched yeast dough, generous with fruit. The original gives no oven temperature and no yield, and the yeast measurement needs translating.

A Little History

Potato water in bread is often said to be among the older thrift techniques in the domestic repertoire — the starchy liquid was already in the pot, it fed the yeast, and it gave a moister crumb that staled more slowly, which would have mattered in households where bread was reportedly baked only once or twice a week. Fruit bread of this kind sits between plain loaf and cake: sweetened only lightly with a tablespoon of sugar, it depends on the raisins for sweetness, and would have been sliced for tea or breakfast rather than served as dessert.

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