Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeFruit Desserts › Gooseberry Tart

Gooseberry Tart

1 pound green gooseberries 6 ounces sugar 2 tablespoons water Paste Pick the gooseberries, and put them in a tart dish; cover them with sugar, and put in the water. Cover with paste, and bake in hot oven. When the paste is baked, it is better to place the tart on the top of the stove to simmer until the gooseberries are quite tender. If the crust is carefully lifted with a knife, a skewer may be inserted to see whether the gooseberries are sufficiently cooked, as the tart will be spoiled unless they are quite soft.

For the Modern Kitchen

A single-crust English fruit tart, baked crust-up over raw fruit. The whole difficulty is that pastry sets faster than hard green gooseberries soften, and the recipe's odd finishing step exists to solve exactly that.

A Little History

Gooseberries were a mainstay of British kitchen gardens and cottage plots well before they were much cultivated elsewhere, and the green, underripe fruit of early summer was valued precisely for its acidity in pies, fools and sauces. The single-crust "tart" here is the older English pattern: fruit into a dish, sugar over, a pastry lid on top, no bottom crust to go soggy. Recipes of this type appear in vegetarian and "meatless" cookbooks of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, a fruit tart being already meat-free. American readers may find the berry unfamiliar for a documented reason: gooseberries and currants host part of the life cycle of white pine blister rust, and cultivation was restricted in many US states from the 1910s onward, which broke the fruit's place in the national kitchen in a way it never fully recovered.

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