Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Queen's Tartlets

Puff paste Fresh strawberries or raspberries Sugar Whipped Cream Make the paste according to the recipe for puff paste. When the tartlet cases are baked and just cool, fill them with either fresh strawberries or raspberries, slightly broken up and covered with sugar. Leave room for the whipped cream, which must be put on top.

For the Modern Kitchen

A recipe written for a cook who already knows puff paste; the whole thing turns on the cases being crisp and the assembly happening late.

A Little History

"Queen's" in a dessert name is more often decorative than historical, and the attribution to any particular queen is rarely traceable. The French kitchen term à la reine is generally associated with rich, creamy preparations served in a pastry case, though the connection to a dish like this one is a matter of naming fashion rather than documented borrowing. Collections of meatless cookery proliferated in Britain and the United States in the 1910s and 1920s, driven partly by wartime food economy and partly by the vegetarian and food-reform movements of the period. Fruit desserts sat easily in such books, being already meatless without substitution. Strawberries and raspberries were seasonal in that era, which may be why the recipe assumes fresh fruit and gives no quantities.

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