Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Peanut Butter Sandwiches

Mix a cream cheese with two scant tablespoons of peanut butter, and blend thoroughly. Season with salt and spread between thin slices of buttered graham bread.

For the Modern Kitchen

A three-ingredient spread from the era when peanut butter was still a health-food novelty rather than a pantry staple. The only real puzzles are the cheese and the bread.

A Little History

Peanut butter arrived in American cookery in the 1890s as an invalid and vegetarian food, promoted by sanitarium kitchens as an easily digested source of protein for people not eating meat, and it turns up constantly in meatless cookbooks of the following thirty years. Pairing it with fresh cheese and graham bread doubles down on that pedigree: graham flour was the emblem of nineteenth-century dietary reform, generally traced to the preaching of Sylvester Graham in the 1830s, and the two ingredients together were understood as a complete, wholesome mouthful rather than a treat. The recipe also reflects how peanut butter was first eaten in polite households, thinned or softened with something else and cut into delicate tea sandwiches, well before it settled into its later partnership with jelly.

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