Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Puree of Cabbage and Potatoes

1 pint boiled and minced cabbage 6 medium-sized potatoes 2 tablespoons butter 2 teaspoons salt 1/2 teaspoon pepper 1/2 pint hot milk Peel the potatoes, and put them in a saucepan with enough boiling water to cover them. Cook just thirty minutes. Pour off the water, and mash fine and light. Beat in the hot milk, seasoning and cabbage. Cook about five minutes longer.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain mash extended with cabbage, from the era when a starchy vegetable dish was offered as the centre of a meatless dinner. It comes together quickly if the cabbage is cooked ahead.

A Little History

Meatless cookbooks of the early twentieth century were not written for vegetarians so much as for households economising, for Lenten and Friday tables, and later for the wartime meat-conservation campaigns that urged families to eat less beef and pork. Dishes like this one were meant to occupy the centre of the plate, filling and cheap, rather than sit beside a roast. The pairing of potato and cabbage is far older than the book and turns up across northern Europe in many forms — the Irish colcannon, the Dutch and Flemish stamppot, the English bubble and squeak made from the previous day's leftovers. What distinguishes this version is the word puree: milk beaten in and the whole thing cooked smooth, in the manner of the French-influenced cookery that American domestic writers of the period were fond of borrowing, even for a dish built from two of the cheapest vegetables in the market.

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