Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Rice Fondue

Rice Fondue

1 cup boiled rice 2 tablespoons milk 1 cup of grated cheese 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon some commercial sauce or similar flavoring Heat the rice in the milk, add the other ingredients, and cook slowly until the cheese is melted. Serve on crackers or toast.

For the Modern Kitchen

A three-minute cheese-and-rice spread from the era when "meat substitute" meant protein from dairy rather than from a factory. Two points matter: the heat stays low, and "fondue" here is not the Swiss pot.

A Little History

Meatless Cookery belongs to a wave of American cookbooks written for households cutting back on meat, whether for Lenten and vegetarian reasons or, in the World War I years, because meatless days were a matter of public appeal and thrift. The "meat substitutes" chapter in such books leans on cheese, eggs, beans and nuts, the foods then understood to carry comparable protein, and rice appears as a cheap extender that stretched an expensive cup of cheese further. The instruction to use "some commercial sauce" is a small period marker in itself: bottled Worcestershire and mushroom ketchup were by then common pantry items, and the recipe names no brand.

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