Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Sauce for Vegetables

3 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons flour 1 cup milk 1 cup liquid in which the vegetable is cooked 1 teaspoon salt Put together as for white sauce. Milk may be used instead of the liquid in which the vegetable is cooked if desired.

For the Modern Kitchen

A standard roux-based white sauce with half the liquid supplied by the vegetable cooking water. The proportions here are heavier than most modern béchamel — 3 tablespoons each of fat and flour to 2 cups liquid gives a medium-thick coating sauce.

A Little History

Meatless cookery leaned hard on white sauce, and this entry shows why: with no meat drippings or pan gravy in the kitchen, a butter-and-flour sauce was the main way to make plain boiled vegetables into something substantial enough to anchor a plate. The technique itself is the French b hat that nineteenth-century writers classed among the mother sauces, and it was absorbed wholesale into American cooking-school teaching, where Fannie Farmer and her successors drilled it in fixed proportions — thin, medium and thick — as a foundation students memorized before anything else. The twist here is the vegetable cooking water, which reflects a growing awareness that boiling leached nutrients out of vegetables and into the pot; household writers responded with the practical instruction to stop throwing the water away.

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