Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeSauces › White Sauce (Tablespoons butter tablespoons)

White Sauce (Tablespoons butter tablespoons)

4 tablespoons butter 4 tablespoons flour 2 cups milk 1 teaspoon salt Heat the milk in a double boiler, but do not let it reach the scalding point. Rub butter, flour and salt together until smooth, then slowly pour over them the hot milk. Stir until smooth and thickened, cooking thoroughly until there is no raw taste.

For the Modern Kitchen

A basic medium white sauce, made by the older kneaded-paste method rather than by cooking a roux first. The whole point is the last clause: cook it long enough that the flour loses its raw taste.

A Little History

White sauce is the American domestic-science rendering of French bechamel, stripped of its onion, bay and long simmer and reduced to a memorizable formula: butter, flour, milk, salt, in thin, medium and thick proportions. Cooking schools of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries are often said to have taught it early, on the grounds that so much else in the repertoire branched off it add cheese and it is a cheese sauce, add eggs and crumbs and it binds a croquette, thin it and it is a cream soup. Where pan drippings or meat stock were not on hand, a kitchen could lean on milk and butter for richness, and this sauce was the vehicle that turned plain boiled vegetables into creamed dishes substantial enough to anchor a meal.

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