Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Sliced Potatoes in Cream

4 medium sized potatoes 2/3 cup milk 1/3 cup cream 1 1/2 teaspoons salt Peel and boil the potatoes as for minced potatoes. Add the salt, milk and cream, and bake in the oven. Allow them to cook slowly for one-half hour or more until the liquid becomes quite thick.

For the Modern Kitchen

A scalloped potato without the flour, the cheese or the crumb topping: the sauce thickens on nothing but the starch the potatoes give up. That is the whole mechanism, and it dictates most of the choices below.

A Little History

Cookbooks titled Meatless Cookery multiplied in the English-speaking world around the First World War, when wheat, meat and fat were the targets of official conservation campaigns and "meatless days" were promoted as patriotic rather than dietary. Sliced potatoes in cream fit that logic: the dish is not pretending to be meat, it is occupying meat's place on the plate, and the cream supplies the richness the absent roast would have brought. The technique itself is older than the campaign, and the same idea underlies the French gratin dauphinois, which likewise depends on potato starch rather than a flour-thickened sauce. What is striking about this version is the plainness, no garlic, no cheese, no crumbs, and the assumption that the cook already knows the earlier recipe for minced potatoes.

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