Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeWhites of Eggs › Soft Boiled Eggs No. 1

Soft Boiled Eggs No. 1

With a spoon put the eggs in a saucepan of boiling water to cover. Remove to back of stove, or where the water will keep very hot, but not boil. Let the eggs remain in the water for five minutes always covered. Break into warm egg cups and season with salt, pepper, butter and a few drops of vinegar.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is coddling rather than boiling: the eggs finish in water held just below a simmer, which sets the white gently while leaving the yolk loose. A few details of the original assume a coal range and a smaller egg than you will buy today.

A Little History

Meatless Cookery belongs to the run of American cookbooks published around the First World War, when meat conservation was a civic campaign and eggs, cheese and pulses were promoted as the protein that would replace it. The technique itself is older than the book and is closer to coddling, a term English cooks used for cooking gently in water short of the boil, though its application specifically to eggs is later. Instructions to move a pan "to the back of the stove" appear frequently in cookbooks of this era and are a reminder that a range had a heat gradient built into it rather than a dial.

← Creamed Cheese and EggsSoft Boiled Eggs No. 2 →