Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Spotted Dick

6 ounces of flour 4 ounces of sultanas or raisins 3 ounces of butter 1 teaspoon baking powder Water Chop the butter as you would suet, and mix into it the flour with the sultanas or raisins, and the baking powder. Add as much water as will make a paste thick enough to roll out, as for roly-poly pudding or jam roll. When rolled out, fold over, and put into a pudding cloth, and boil for about one hour.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain boiled pudding whose only trick is the butter: it stands in for the beef suet of the classic version, which is the point of its inclusion in a meatless book. Keep it cold and the crust stays light.

A Little History

Spotted dick belongs to the long English line of boiled suet puddings, the sweet cousins of roly-poly and jam roll that the recipe itself invokes as a model. The name is usually explained as "spotted" for the currants or sultanas studding the dough and "dick" as a dialect word for pudding, sometimes linked to "duff" and "dough"; that etymology is traditional rather than firmly documented. What makes this version notable is the substitution: suet is the raw hard fat from around a beef animal's kidneys, so a kitchen avoiding meat had to find a replacement, and butter chopped cold to imitate suet's flakes was one of the answers reached for, alongside the vegetable and nut fats sold for the purpose. The pudding cloth, rather than a basin, points to an older practice still ordinary in domestic kitchens at the time this book was written.

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