Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Stuffed Cucumbers

4 rather large cucumbers 1 tomato 1 tablespoon chopped onion 2 tablespoons melted butter 2 cups boiled or steamed rice 1 teaspoon salt Peel the cucumbers, and cut into halves, removing the seeds and some of the pulp. Peel the tomato, and cut into small pieces. Mix with the chopped onion, add the cooked rice, salt and butter. Fill the half cucumbers with the mixture, and bake covered until the latter are tender, or about forty-five minutes in a hot oven. Remove the cover for the last part of the baking.

For the Modern Kitchen

A simple stuffed vegetable that depends entirely on managing the cucumber's water. Two hundred words of instruction, but the hinge is salting and draining the shells first.

A Little History

Meatless Cookery belongs to the small shelf of American cookbooks of the First World War era, a period when meat was conserved by persuasion rather than by law and, from August 1917, Herbert Hoover's Food Administration promoted "meatless days" as a patriotic act. Books like this one reframed vegetables and grains as "meat substitutes," a category that made sense to readers who understood a meal as a piece of meat with things around it: hollow out a vegetable, fill it with a starch, and the plate has a centre again. Stuffed cucumber is a long-established idea in Turkish, Persian and Central European cooking, where cucumbers and their relatives are filled with rice and often minced lamb; the American version is meatless. Cooked cucumber, common enough in nineteenth-century kitchens as a stewed or fried vegetable, has largely fallen out of the English-speaking repertoire, which is why the dish reads as odder now than it once did.

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