Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Walnut Pie

Walnut Pie

1/2 pint shelled walnuts 1/2 pint milk Onion juice 1/2 pint bread crumbs 1 teaspoon salt 1 saltspoon pepper 1 tablespoon flour Run the bread crumbs and walnuts through a nut mill, then mix them with one tablespoon of butter, onion juice, the flour made into a paste with the milk and seasoning. Bring to a boil in a saucepan and mix thoroughly, then pour into a shallow baking dish and bake a rich brown.

For the Modern Kitchen

A nut panada baked in a dish — despite the name there is no pastry, and the crumbs stand in for a crust. The proportions are simple, but the original omits the oven temperature and the butter appears only in the method, so read it through before starting.

A Little History

Nut loaves and nut "pies" of this kind belong to the vegetarian cookery that spread through Britain and America from the 1890s onward, and such dishes became more prominent during the First World War, when meat was scarce and government food campaigns pushed households toward substitutes. Walnuts were widely used: high in fat and protein, and — once ground in a hand-cranked nut mill — capable of giving a savoury dish the richness and brown crust that cooks associated with roast meat. "Pie" here appears to mean simply a thing baked in a dish, a looser usage than ours, with the breadcrumbs doing the work that pastry would otherwise do, and the seasoning of onion juice, salt and pepper leans savoury rather than flattering the walnut.

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