Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Whites of Eggs Sur Le Plat

4 whites of egg A little butter 2 tablespoons milk Salt Butter a pie dish or china souffle dish, put in the milk, pepper and salt, and drop the whites of egg into the dish, and bake in the oven in a tin of water till the whites are just set.

For the Modern Kitchen

A frugal little dish for using up egg whites, baked gently in a water bath. The whole trick is low, even heat.

A Little History

Books of this era generated egg whites the way modern kitchens generate stale bread: custards, mayonnaise, sauces and rich puddings all called for yolks alone, and a thrifty cook was left with a bowl of whites and no wish to waste them. Hence a recipe headed "Whites of Eggs". Cooking eggs sur le plat -- in a shallow dish, served in the vessel they were cooked in -- was a standard French method that English-language cookbooks appear to have taken up in the nineteenth century, usually with whole eggs; applying it to whites alone is the economising twist.

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