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Entrées: Parmesan
Ox-tongue is served as- Langue de bœuf au Parmesan. Slices cooked with stock, wine, and grated Parmesan. en papillotes. Slices wrapped in papers with slices of bacon and broiled. à la Napolitaine. Slices covered with cheese sauce and breadcrumbs, and served with macaroni and tomatoes.
Turban de langue de bœuf à l'Ecarlate. Oval slices cut from two tongues, one pickled red, the other fresh; dressed in a crown alternately, with tomato sauce. à la Macédoine is dressed in the same manner, and served with a white Macédoine garnish in the centre, and white sauce.
Bouchées à l'écarlate are little patties of tongue.
Ox-tails are dressed as Queue de bœuf en haricot, or en ragoût, cut in joints, stewed, and served in the sauce with onions, carrots and turnips cut in shapes. aux pruneaux-stewed, and served with pickled plums, and a rich brown sauce. à la jardinière-served with brown sauce, and vegetables cut in small shapes. en kari-curried, and served with boiled rice. à la Milanaise-stewed, and served in white sauce with macaroni. aux marrons-served in brown sauce with braised chestnuts. à la Ste. Ménehould-served in a brown sauce, covered with breadcrumbs and browned. à la Marseillaise the pieces masked with a purée of onions, breadcrumbed and fried; served in a highly seasoned brown sauce.
VEAL.
Veal Cutlets are served as:
Côtelettes de veau à la Russe-fried, spread on ENTRÉES. one side with a preparation of horseradish, and breadcrumbed with grated Parmesan mixed with the crumbs; served with thin tomato sauce.
Côtelettes de veau à la Maintenon-coated with a sauce of mushrooms, ham, eggs, etc., and baked or grilled in papers. This dish is sometimes prepared with little slices of veal fricandeau. en papillotes-soaked in oil with mushrooms, lemon juice, etc.; wrapped in papers and cooked in the seasoned oil. à la Boulanger-sauté, and served in tomato sauce with a purée of apples in the centre. à la Talleyrand-seasoned with chopped mushrooms and shallots, cooked and served in a white sauce with lemon juice and chopped parsley. à la St. Clair-served with slices of fried ham and tomato sauce. à la Drayton-thickly coated with a rich brown sauce, breadcrumbed and sauté. à la sans façon-breadcrumbed with chopped shallots and parsley mixed with the crumbs, broiled, and dressed round mashed potato. à la Marquise-covered with a slice of ham and a coating of forcemeat, breadcrumbed and fried, and served in a white sauce with chopped ham. à la Reine-breadcrumbed and broiled; served with truffles and mushrooms, and clear gravy. à la Maréchale-breadcrumbed with grated cheese mixed with the crumbs, and fried; served with orange sauce.
Côtelettes de veau à la Financière-larded, braised and glazed; served with Financière sauce. aux champignons-larded, braised and glazed; served with a purée of mushrooms. They are also served with tomato, Jardinière, or other sauce, or with dressed cucumber or asparagus, and named after the sauce or garnish with which they are served. À la Russe, they are served with horseradish sauce ; à la Bretonne, with a purée of turnips. Veal cutlets dressed in this way are often called Grenadins de veau instead of côtelettes. à la St. Garat-larded with bacon and tongue, and braised. Set in aspic ornamented with hard-boiled egg, truffles, etc., and cut out; served cold. à la Princesse-braised in white stock, coated with Mayonnaise sauce, and served cold with salad and aspic jelly. Served with iced tomatoes, they are called à l'Américaine. The tendons, or gristly part of the breast, cut in pieces, are dressed as- Tendrons de veau aux petits pois-stewed with peas, etc. frits-soaked in vinegar and water, and fried.
Served with horseradish sauce, they are called à la Russe. la Poulette-cooked in a white sauce with onions, mushrooms, etc.
ENTRÉES.
Tendrons de veau à la noble dame. Small pieces coated with a white sauce, dipped in batter and fried. Dressed with fried watercress in the centre, and a sauce of cream and butter. aux épinards. Oval pieces, braised and glazed; served with dressed spinach. en kari-curried; served with a slice of fried bacon between each piece, and with rice in the centre. à la Naples served in a Soubise sauce with cheese. en Mayonnaise-served cold in Mayonnaise sauce, with onions and gherkins.
Escalopes Ecossaises are slices of veal seasoned with spice, served in a savoury sauce, garnished with rolls of fried bacon, forcemeat balls, and lemon.
Haricot de veau à la Normande is a haricot of veal with herbs and green peas.
Blanquette de veau is a white fricassee of veal; à l'écarlate, it is dressed with tongue. A fricassee of veal can also be served à l'Anglaisewith fried bacon, or aux œufs pochés-with poached eggs.
Pilau de veau à la Madras. Pieces of veal dressed with curried rice, spice and raisins; garnished with rolls of fried bacon.
Pilau de veau à la Bombay is dressed with savoury rice with spice and raisins, and is garnished with slices or divisions of oranges, and shreds of lettuce and orange peel.
Medaillons de veau à la Belle Vue are slices from a galantine of veal, coated with a white sauce and served on an aspic border with a salad in the centre.
Pain de veau is a mould of minced veal. Served à la Napolitaine, it has a white sauce with cheese.
Petites croustades à la Napolitaine are little pastry cases filled with minced veal in a white cheese sauce.
Timbale à l'Indienne is a mould of minced veal or veal forcemeat, served with Indian sauce and garnished with Indian pickles.
Timbale à la Talleyrand is a mould of forcemeat and tongue. Made in a shape of pastry, it is called Croustade à la Talleyrand.
Andouillettes de Troyes grillées are broiled veal sausages, made with mushrooms, truffles, eggs, etc.
Poupiettes, or Olives, de veau are slices of veal spread with forcemeat, rolled and stewed.
The page runs from ox tongue through oxtail to veal cutlets. What holds it together is not an ingredient but a place in the meal: these are entrées, and nearly all of them start from cuts a butcher now keeps behind the counter rather than in it.
- Tongue is a special orderA whole ox tongue has to be asked for. It comes fresh or brined, and the brined ones are pink because of the curing salt — that pink is the écarlate, the scarlet, of Turban de langue de bœuf à l’Ecarlate. Either way it wants several hours at a bare simmer, and the skin peels off while it is still hot.
- Two tongues for one dishThe Turban asks for oval slices cut from two tongues, one cured and one fresh, laid alternately in a ring: pink, grey, pink, grey. The dish exists for the colour contrast. It is worth noticing how much of this chapter is designed to be looked at before it is eaten.
- Oxtail needs time the page omitsEvery oxtail entry says stewed and stops. Jointed oxtail wants three hours or more at a bare simmer before it gives up the bone, and it is better cooked the day before and skimmed cold. The book assumes a kitchen with something always on the stove.
- En papillotes meant paper over the fireCôtelettes en papillotes are wrapped in paper and broiled, or cooked in the seasoned oil they were soaked in. That is paper over direct heat, not parchment in an oven. The older method scorches the paper and concentrates the oil inside it, and it is why the dish came to the table still wrapped.
- Tendrons are the rib ends of the breastThe page defines them: the tendons, or gristly part of the breast, cut in pieces. That is veal breast, sold whole if at all, and you will have to order it. The gristle is the point, because long cooking turns it to gelatine, which is what makes the Poulette version work at all.
- Grenadins and côtelettesThe page states outright that veal cutlets larded, braised and glazed are often called grenadins instead of côtelettes. Same meat, same method, a different word chosen for the card. The book’s entire subject is in that one line.
Nothing here is a prime cut. Tongue, tail, the gristly end of the breast: this is the part of the animal a frugal kitchen used, and at this table it arrived under French names in the entrée course as a matter of course rather than as thrift. The naming is doing social work. Queue de bœuf à la Ste. Ménehould is stewed oxtail crumbed and browned, and written in English it would never have reached the menu card. The two-tongue turban is the same instinct carried into the serving dish: a cheap cut arranged for colour, in a ring, with sauce in the middle, so that what the guests saw first was a pattern.