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Removes or Releves: Chipolata
Cochon de lait is a sucking pig. It is plainly roasted; or stuffed with truffles, etc., à la Périgueux; or with chestnut and sausagemeat stuffing, and served with Chipolata garnish, à la Chipolata. à la Savoyarde-stuffed with sausage-meat, rice, etc., and roasted; served with little sausages, and a white sauce with wine and mushrooms. en galantine is a braised galantine of sucking pig.
Pâté froid de cochon de lait is a cold sucking pig pie. A Ham as- Jambon à la broche aux épinards is roasted, and served with spinach. If a York ham is used, the dish is called Jambon d'York à l'Anglaise. braisé is braised. Served with sausages and peas puddings, it is called à la Polonaise. aux cerises is braised, and served in a brown sauce with wine and stewed cherries. à la Maillot is braised in wine; served with vegetables and Madeira sauce. glacé à la Jardinière is glazed, and garnished "à la Jardinière." It is also served à la Macédoine, aux petits pois or aux haricots verts, with a garnish of Macédoine, green peas or French beans.
Fromage de cochon is brawn.
A haunch of boar, or Cuissot de sanglier, may be served à la Royale, larded, and braised in wine and water with vegetables, etc. Aux cerises, it is served with cherry sauce.
Filet de sanglier au chasseur is a fillet of boar, soaked in oil, etc., and braised; served with Poivrade sauce.
Hure de sanglier is a boar's head.
POULTRY.
A capon boiled in stock with bacon, onions, etc., is served in the sauce as Chapon au gros sel. Stuffed with truffles, etc., and roasted, it is served à la Périgueux, with Périgueux sauce; or à la Piémontaise, with tomato sauce and raviolis. A fowl boiled and served with Bourgeoise sauce is called Poule au pot.
A fat pullet, or poularde, is roasted, and served à la Financière-with Financière garnish; or aux légumes printaniers-with stewed young vegetables and brown sauce.
À la Grimod de la Reynière, it is filled with a stuffing of the liver with truffles, mushrooms, etc., and roasted in slices of bread and ham.
À l'Anvers, it is larded, roasted, and served with a compote of apples, and balls of forcemeat, and brown sauce.
À la Régence, it is stuffed and braised, and served with truffle sauce.
À la Lucullus, it is stuffed with liver forcemeat with truffles, roasted, and served with a garnish of tomato rice with cheese, and truffle sauce.
À la Montmorency, it is larded, stuffed with liver forcemeat, braised and glazed.
À la Guillaume Tell, it is boned, stuffed and braised; set in a mould with the stock, garnished with truffles, and served cold.
For Pilau de poularde it is cooked with spice, onions, rice, etc.; masked with the rice, and garnished with hard-boiled eggs.
A remove, or relevé, is the course that replaced another on the table, carried in as the fish went out. That is why this chapter is made almost entirely of whole animals and whole joints.
- Everything here needs an oven you do not haveA sucking pig, a whole ham on a spit, a boar’s head, a haunch of boar. These were cooked in a range or over a fire sized for a household that ate like this every week, and no domestic oven today takes any of them whole without an argument.
- Jambon à la broche starts with a raw hamThe ham in these entries is cured but uncooked, and it is being roasted or braised from scratch. A modern gammon joint has already been brined and usually boiled, so the braises here, in wine, with cherries, with Madeira, are starting from a quite different piece of meat and will oversalt if treated the same way.
- Fromage de cochon is brawnThe book gives the translation and moves on. It is still made and still sold, usually as head cheese or brawn, and it is the one item on the page a reader can buy on the way home.
- Poularde is not a supermarket chickenA poularde is a bird fattened to carry a great deal more flesh and fat than a standard roasting chicken, and every treatment here depends on that. A large free-range or corn-fed bird comes closest; a standard broiler will be dry long before the stuffing is hot.
- The names tell you nothingÀ la Grimod de la Reynière, à la Lucullus, à la Guillaume Tell, à la Montmorency. Each is a person or a title, not a description, and the half-line gloss that follows is the only definition that exists. Where the book does not gloss a name, the dish is unrecoverable.
- Boar is a farmed animal nowWild boar is sold farmed and is considerably younger and more tender than the animal these recipes were written for. The long braise in wine and water with vegetables was insurance against toughness, and a farmed haunch will dry out if you give it the full time.
The word remove is the key to the whole chapter, and it describes furniture as much as food. At a dinner served in this style the dishes for a course were set on the table together, and when that course was cleared a new dish was carried in to take its place, which is what a remove was. The things that filled the slot had to be large, impressive from every seat, and capable of being divided in front of the company, because a remove was carved in the room. That requirement explains everything strange about the list: whole hams glazed and garnished, a pig stuffed with chestnuts and sausage meat, a boar’s head, a capon boiled in stock and served in its own sauce. It also explains why a book of this period could assume that someone at the table knew how to carve, and why another book in this series was devoted entirely to teaching it.