Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Canada Egg Bread

1 cup corn meal 1 cup flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 tablespoon butter 1 cup milk 3 eggs Mix the dry ingredients; add the butter, warmed but not melted, and the milk and beaten eggs. The batter will be stiff. Bake in greased tins; mark into squares; break and serve hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain quick cornbread with a high proportion of egg, written for cooks who knew their own stove. The original gives no oven temperature, no pan size and no salt, so a few decisions have to be made before the batter goes in.

A Little History

Egg bread is an older American name used for corn breads enriched with egg; it overlaps with, but is not simply the earlier name for, spoon bread, which is softer and eaten with a spoon. This firmer version is corn meal loosened with wheat flour and carried by a high count of eggs. The type is usually associated with Southern kitchens, where cornmeal was the default grain, and such breads appear in general cookbooks through the later nineteenth century as chemical leavening spread; the baking powder here does work that beaten eggs alone would otherwise have to do. Why this one is called "Canada" is not clear from the book, and regional labels of the period were often attached loosely, marking a variation a compiler had picked up rather than a documented origin. The loose-leaf format -- printed pages a housekeeper could rearrange and add to -- may explain how the recipe came to sit among the frozen desserts, and the terse style assumes a cook who already knew what a hot oven felt like.

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