Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Corn Pudding

6 ears corn. 1 cup hot milk. 1/4 teaspoon salt. 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon flour 1 egg Prepare the corn as for cooking off the cob. Melt the butter; mix well with the flour; add the milk gradually, then the seasoning and corn, and last of all the beaten egg. Pour into a buttered baking dish and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour.

For the Modern Kitchen

The ingredient list as printed is incomplete — the corn, milk and salt are named in the method but never quantified — so treat this as a proportion sketch rather than a fixed formula.

A Little History

Corn pudding belongs to the oldest layer of American cookery: a dish built on scraped green corn, the milky immature stage that has to be used within a day or two of picking. Colonial and nineteenth-century cooks scraped their corn, and the technique is often said to derive from Native practice, though the transmission is not documented. What marks this particular version as early twentieth century is the white sauce — butter, flour and milk cooked together — which by Mrs. Fryer's day had become the standard binder taught in cooking schools. Loose-leaf cook books like this one were sold as expandable systems, the pages meant to be rearranged or added to; the format may help explain the clipped, telegraphic ingredient lists and, perhaps, a list that lost several of its lines somewhere along the way.

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