Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Egg Gruel

1 egg 1 cup hot milk 1 teaspoon sugar Grated nutmeg or lemon juice Beat the yolk of the egg with the sugar until light; add the well-beaten white; pour over this the hot milk; flavor and serve

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is an invalid's drink from the era when raw egg beaten into hot liquid was standard sickroom nourishment. The method cannot bring the egg to a safe temperature, and the people it was made for were exactly those least able to withstand an infection.

A Little History

Egg gruel belongs to the large body of "invalid cookery" that occupied a chapter in many household manuals from the 1850s through the 1920s -- beef tea, barley water, wine whey, milk toast, egg nog served warm in a cup. Before antibiotics, nursing a fever at home often meant long stretches of feeding someone who could not chew, and eggs and milk were among the densest nourishment a cook could get into a spoon. The dish is essentially an uncooked custard, and similar proportions -- one egg, one cup of milk, a little sugar and nutmeg -- turn up baked as a plain cup custard throughout the same period, which shows how thin the line was between a dessert and a medicine.

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