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Egg Gruel
1 egg 1 cup hot milk 1 teaspoon sugar Grated nutmeg or lemon juice Beat the yolk of the egg with the sugar until light; add the well-beaten white; pour over this the hot milk; flavor and serve
This is an invalid's drink from the era when raw egg beaten into hot liquid was standard sickroom nourishment. The method cannot bring the egg to a safe temperature, and the people it was made for were exactly those least able to withstand an infection.
- The egg is never cookedThe egg is never cooked to a verified temperature -- a cup of hot milk poured over a beaten raw egg may not reach, and certainly is not held at, the temperature needed to destroy Salmonella; how warm it ends up depends entirely on how hot the milk was. Nothing in the recipe returns it to heat, and it is served immediately.
- Intended for the vulnerableGruels of this kind were fed to the sick, the elderly, the convalescent and small children — the groups in whom salmonellosis is most likely to become invasive rather than merely unpleasant. The intended audience is what makes this one worth flagging rather than shrugging at.
- Shell eggs then and nowCookery writing of the period generally treated a fresh egg as clean inside. Modern understanding of Salmonella enteritidis, which can be present within an intact, unblemished egg, removed that assumption.
- Beating in air makes it worse, not betterBeating in air does not help -- whipping the white to a foam gives the mixture more surface from which to lose heat, and the visible lightness that signalled quality does nothing to pasteurise it.
- If you want the drinkCustard-style hot egg drinks are still made, but only with pasteurized shell eggs or liquid egg product, or by cooking the mixture over heat to a measured temperature. Use a current recipe written on that basis rather than adapting this one.
- Terms in the original"Gruel" here means a thin drink, not the oat porridge the word usually implies. The grated nutmeg or lemon juice is flavouring only, and neither has any preservative or antimicrobial role at these quantities.
Egg gruel belongs to the large body of "invalid cookery" that occupied a chapter in many household manuals from the 1850s through the 1920s -- beef tea, barley water, wine whey, milk toast, egg nog served warm in a cup. Before antibiotics, nursing a fever at home often meant long stretches of feeding someone who could not chew, and eggs and milk were among the densest nourishment a cook could get into a spoon. The dish is essentially an uncooked custard, and similar proportions -- one egg, one cup of milk, a little sugar and nutmeg -- turn up baked as a plain cup custard throughout the same period, which shows how thin the line was between a dessert and a medicine.