Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Egg Lemonade

2 lemons 2 eggs 4 tablespoons sugar 3 cups water 1 cup cracked ice Break the eggs and beat the whites and yolks separately. Mix the lemons, sugar, water and ice as for lemonade; add the eggs; pour rapidly back and forth from one pitcher to another and serve before the froth disappears.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a raw-egg drink: the eggs are beaten and poured into cold lemonade, never heated at any stage. That places it outside what we can recommend making from the text as written.

A Little History

Egg lemonade belongs to a large family of American egg drinks that includes eggnog, the egg phosphate and the sherry flip, all popular at soda fountains and in domestic kitchens through the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Raw egg was regarded as a strengthening food, and beverages built on it were routinely prescribed for invalids, convalescents and people thought to need building up; cookbooks of the period often carry a whole chapter of "drinks for the sick" in which egg, milk, beef tea and wine do the work. The pitcher-to-pitcher pour is the household version of what a fountain clerk did with a shaker, and it survives today mainly in the throwing technique used for a few cocktails. The dish reads as harmless in its own time because commercial egg handling, refrigeration and the identification of Salmonella enteritidis as a hazard in intact shell eggs all came later.

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