Mrs. W. H. Wilson's New Cook Book

Mrs. Wilson's plain-spoken new cook book — farina to fruit cake in level measures and few words.

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Chicken Timbales

1 cup of rich sweet milk or cream. Breast of 1 chicken. 1/2 cup bread crumbs. Whites of 3 eggs.

Run breast through grinder until very fine. Put crumbs in milk over steam and cook until thick. Mix in chicken. Add beaten whites of three eggs. Put in timbale molds. Set in hot water and cook fifteen minutes.

For the Modern Kitchen

A French-style forcemeat baked in small molds. The whole thing hinges on the panade: the crumbs and milk must be cooked to a stiff paste before the chicken goes in, or the mixture will weep liquid in the molds and the timbales will collapse when turned out.

A Little History

The timbale takes its name from the French timbale, a drum, after the shape of the mold rather than anything about the filling, and it descends from the older kitchen repertoire of quenelles and forcemeats in which pounded raw meat is bound with a bread-and-milk panade and lightened with egg. By the time Mrs. Mary A. Wilson was writing for American households around 1920, that technique had found a place in the home kitchen: it turned a single chicken breast into a company entree for four, which is very much the logic of her book, written in the wake of wartime food conservation campaigns and aimed at cooks who needed refinement and thrift in the same dish. Timbales, croquettes and cutlets appear in American cookbooks of this period for exactly that reason, and they fell out of fashion as the century went on.

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