Mrs. W. H. Wilson's New Cook Book

Mrs. Wilson's plain-spoken new cook book — farina to fruit cake in level measures and few words.

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Frozen Cheese Salad

2 lbs. cottage cheese. 4 large tomatoes. 1/2 teaspoon salt. 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce. 1 cup cream. 1 green pepper. Cut tomatoes in pieces, drain, cut peppers. Mix cheese with cream and seasoning. Add tomatoes and pepper. Pack in mould; turn out and slice.

For the Modern Kitchen

A moulded cheese salad from the era when "frozen" on a salad page usually meant packed in a mould and buried in ice and salt rather than frozen hard. The whole dish stands or falls on how thoroughly the tomatoes are drained.

A Little History

Mrs. Wilson's book belongs to the moment when American home kitchens had reliable ice but not yet reliable mechanical refrigeration, and the salad chapter reflects it: moulded, chilled and "frozen" salads appear alongside plain green ones because a hostess with an ice tub could produce something that looked engineered. Cottage cheese was cheap, plentiful and heavily promoted during and just after the First World War as a domestic protein that spared meat, which is one reason it shows up in two-pound quantities here rather than as a garnish. The Worcestershire and cayenne are typical of the period's approach to bland dairy — sharp bottled seasoning standing in for the acidity a modern cook might get from lemon or vinegar. Mary A. Wilson wrote for the Philadelphia press and her recipes carry that newspaper-column terseness: quantities, then a single run of imperative verbs, with the assumption that the reader already owns the mould.

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