The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Celery Tonic (For use in hot beef tea dilute)

For use in hot beef tea, dilute American Celery Tonic Extract with half water, and squirt from an essence bottle.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a fountain dispensing note rather than a full formula: it assumes a bottled proprietary extract and a steam-heated beef bouillon urn. Both need translating before it means anything in a kitchen.

A Little History

Around 1900 the American soda fountain did a substantial trade in hot drinks as well as cold, and beef tea sat in the urn beside the coffee as a restorative for anyone feeling delicate — the same logic that made beef extracts a fixture of the sickroom. Celery was in a parallel boom: the stalks themselves were a fashionable and fairly expensive table vegetable, and celery seed and root carried a long reputation as a nerve and kidney tonic, which is why druggists bottled celery extracts alongside sarsaparilla and kola. The pairing here looks medicinal in intent, a savoury pick-me-up rather than a treat. The soda-water side of the same fashion outlived the beef tea: celery tonic survives in bottled form as Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray, still made and still tasting of celery seed.

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