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Caramel Ice Cream
Add caramel made from one cup of sugar and one-half cup of water, to recipe for vanilla cream. chapter on Cake Fillings and Frostings for Caramel.
A two-line variation that assumes you already have the book's vanilla ice-cream base and its caramel recipe in front of you. The whole dish hinges on how far you cook the sugar.
- What "caramel" means hereNot a chewy candy but a dark sugar syrup: one cup sugar with one-half cup water boiled until it colours. Judge it by eye and take it to a deep amber; stopped too pale the flavour is merely sweet, and taken too far it turns acrid.
- Add it hot, to a warm baseStir the caramel syrup into the custard while both are still warm, so it blends in evenly; poured into a cold base it stiffens and streaks and is harder to work in.
- The vanilla cream it refers toThe cross-reference is to the book's own vanilla ice cream, which may be either a plain sweetened cream or a cooked egg custard; check what your base recipe calls for. If it contains egg, cook the custard to 170-175F so the eggs are safe and the base thickens.
- Reduce the sugar in the baseThe caramel brings a full cup of sugar of its own. Cut the sugar in the vanilla recipe by roughly a third, or the finished cream will be cloying and slow to set firm.
- Vanilla is optional nowKeep about half the vanilla; caramel and a full measure of extract compete. A pinch of salt sharpens the caramel considerably.
- FreezingThe original assumes a hand-cranked bucket packed with cracked ice and coarse salt, roughly three parts ice to one of salt. A modern machine works directly; chill the base thoroughly first, since caramel-heavy custards churn slowly.
- YieldYield depends entirely on the vanilla cream recipe you are working from, which this page does not restate. The caramel syrup adds volume, so allow headroom in the canister.
Caramel-flavoured ices belong to the late-nineteenth-century vogue for burnt sugar in American cookery, where caramel appeared in cakes, fillings, custards and puddings and was made fresh at home rather than bought. The terseness here is characteristic of The Butterick Cook Book (1911), a companion volume to the pattern company's magazines: recipes were written as families of variations on a small number of base formulas, and the reader is sent to the cake-frosting chapter for the caramel itself.